Our replica Hello Girl Uniform in wool. Chickens not included.
The majority of our 2022 custom commission sewing calendar was filled with our now internationally celebrated WWI Era Hello Girl reproduction Uniforms. We originally launched our design for this garment in 2018 as WWI Centennial celebrations were happening around the world. For two years, we made our WWI Hello Girl uniforms for clients from right here in Tennessee to the stages of NYC and beyond. We are proud our WWI Hello Girl Uniforms have helped bring notoriety and honor to the first acknowledged female soldiers of the United States Army.
We retired our WWI Hello Girl uniforms at the close of the centennial celebrations (in 2020) but last year were contacted by the US Department of Defense and asked to recreate several of our uniforms for the US National Military band. We just couldn’t say “No” to a request like that now could we?
So out of retirement these lovelies came and I have to say we were quite honored to have the opportunity to replicate these amazing WWI Hello Girl uniforms for the United States Military. Our reproduction uniform’s purpose has come full circle now.
In addition, we also made several more replicas in 2022 for various museum exhibits around the nation. If you happen to catch one of our nation’s military concerts or visit an exhibit featuring The Hello Girls, we most likely made the reproduction uniform!
For more information about our WWI Era Uniforms, please visit our catalog or blog!
Women and WWI is a series based on historical accounts of women who fought for the Allied Cause during The First World War. Women’s war contributions have largely been dismissed and were not formerly acknowledged until the late 1970s when women of the US Army Signal Corps Telephone Operator’s Units demanded recognition from the US government and equal status as military veterans. This series is based on first hand accounts as well as research by other historians. Women and WWI hopes to spark continued curiosity about the roles women played during The Great War and further propel women’s history into mainstream consciousness.
In America, the call to war sounded in December 1917. Due to the worsening state of communication at the Western front, General John J. Pershing requested the formation of a specialized unit formally called the Signal Corps Female Telephone Operators Unit. This unit was unique because it was only open to women applicants. And it was completely volunteer. Candidates had to be proficient speakers of the French language and be able to translate communications on the spot. Over 7,600 women applied for this volunteer service, but only 223 women were accepted- thus becoming the U.S. Army’s all female unit we now call the “Hello Girls.”
The term “Hello Girls” was not new to contemporary vernacular. The earliest notation of “Hello Girls” comes from Mark Twain‘s 1889 A Connecticut Yankee in King Arthur’s Court. He writes”The humblest hello-girl along ten thousand miles of wire could teach gentleness, patience, modesty, manners, to the highest duchess in Arthur’s land.” The term referred to female switchboard operators as it was common practice to greet callers with “hello” upon ringing the switchboard. It is therefore no surprise to learn most of the US Army’s Hello Girls were indeed former switchboard operators or employees of telecommunications companies.
Unlike telegraph and radio communications, the telephone was untraceable. And they were immediate. However, every call had to be connected manually. And women could connect five calls in the same time it took a man to do one. Initially when the US Army arrived in France, the Generals on both sides were confronted with the language barrier. Many American officers did not speak French and many French switch board operators did not speak English. So, the Hello Girls served as translators as well as operators. In an interview by Smithsonian magazine, author Elizabeth Cobbs [The Hello Girls: America’s First Women Soldiers] states “They were constantly fielding simultaneous calls; they were translating; they were sweeping the boards; and even giving the time. Artillery kept calling them and saying, can I have the time operator? The women were really critical” (Boissoneault).
Grace Banker, chief telephone operator, and her unit sailed for Europe in March 1918. Over the next year, six more units would follow. The Hello Girls worked in varied locations in varied locations and facilities- from makeshift bases just several miles from the front lines to the more stationary communications hubs in Tours.
Banker writes in her memoirs, “the work was fascinating; much of it was in codes- which changed frequently. The girls had to speak both French and English and they also had to understand American Doughboy French.” The women were often in range of German artillery, but they stayed at their posts because their work was essential” (Grace D. Banker collection).
Like all women who rose to the call of their countries, patriotism and a sense of “doing one’s bit” was a driving force behind their motivations. One widow who had lost a son in battle joined La Dame Blanche with her four daughters to work as couriers and transcribers in an effort to reconcile their loss. Hello Girl Merle Egan wrote upon leaving for France, “As we sailed out of the harbor past the Statue of Liberty…. there was an emotional tension experienced, I am sure by every Veteran who has served overseas. For some, there would be no returning but we knew we were answering our country’s call and we were proud of that mission” (Merle Egan Anderson: Montana’s “Hello Girl.”). It would take 60 years for the service of the Signal Corps Female Telephone Operators Unit to be officially recognized by the US government.
When Grace Banker and Merle Egan and the other 221 Hello Girls returned home from war in 1919, they were told by the US Army they weren’t members of the US Military. Banker was awarded the Distinguished Service Medal by General Pershing but was told she was not a veteran. She was merely a civilian who participated in war work. She was told her war service did not count. She writes in her diary on November 11, 1919, “We have lived so long under war conditions that it doesn’t seem that it could come so simply. On Nov. 11th the Armistice was signed at eleven o’clock this morning, the eleventh day, the eleventh hour. All fighting was ordered to cease at that time. Our Corps lines were in bad condition and poor Capt. Beaumont of the telegraph office was having a terrible time. Suppose the message didn’t get through all right. It must get through if not by telegraphs then by telephone. So we put him through on our lines and he used my telephone. He yelled the message out. It had to get through!” (Grace D. Banker collection).
Conclusion:
In Lille, there is a monument erected in 1920 to Louise De Bettignies inscribed with the words “To Louise De Bettignies and to the heroic women of invaded countries 1914-1918.” History only records the name of Louise De Bettignies because she was caught and her trial caused an international sensation. The work of thousands of nameless women has been obscured. But why? The majority of archives from these secret services were destroyed during WWII and the reason is unclear. Was it to protect the organizations themselves or was there another reason? In a 1926 newspaper article, an intelligence officer is quoted as saying “Women are fundamentally inaccurate. They experience a constant ‘urge’ to be working in the limelight…” (Chronicling America). Upon reaching Tours, it was Merle Egan’s her duty to train men on the switchboard. “The men were initially hostile: ‘Where’s my skirt?’ was their standard greeting. . . . [After] I reminded them that any soldier could carry a gun but the safety of a whole division might depend on the switchboard one of them was operating I had no more trouble” (Merle Egan Anderson: Montana’s “Hello Girl.”).
Dismissive tones such as this resonate throughout history and as Proctor states so eloquently in her book “have left no space to honor [women’s wartime sacrifices and contributions] as active, intelligent patriots” (109). Even the terminology used for these women is deeply gendered. The term “farmerette” means little or less than farmer. Referring to women as “girls” denotes a child-like and inexperienced nature. It is often used to infer that women must be taken care of or raised (i.e. The Pygmalion complex). A 2018 Daily Mail article attempting to celebrate the heroism of Louise De Bettignies instead belittles her efforts from the get go with its article title “French Housekeeper Spied for Britain in WWI before being captured by Germans” (September 21). Classifying Louise as a “Housekeeper,” dismisses her upper class lineage, extensive educations, and paints her simply as a rogue savant relegating her back into domestic service. It devalues her status as an elite intelligence agent of MI5. Although this is terminology contemporary to the era, we as modern historians must be aware of the biases the language continues to promote.
As we look to the future, I challenge you to lift the veil of obscurity and uncover the hidden truths of our diverse past. Never again allow the contributions of women be dismissed or forgotten. Amplify the whispers of our history into a loud and clear roar. Let the voices, faces, sacrifices, and resilience of all those who have come before us spark inspiration for how we will shape our future. Let the stories of women remain Invisible No More.
Recommended Readings:
Boissoneault, Lorraine. “Women On the Frontlines of WWI Came to Operate Telephones.” Smithsonian Magazine, APRIL 4, 2017.
Brittain, Vera. Testament of Youth. Victor Gollancz Ltd. London, 1933.
Brittain, Vera. Lady into Woman. Andrew Dakers Limited. London, 1953.
Timble, Carolyn. “100 Years Ago “Hello Girl” Grace Banker receives Distinguished Service Medal.” United States World War One Centennial Commission. www.worldwar1centennial.org
CalicoBall is a grassroots effort to document, preserve, and present rural America’s diverse historical traditions. CalicoBall is an educational extension of Maggie May Clothing. All rights reserved.
Our exclusive WWI Era Hello Girl uniform is based on the original uniform worn by The United States’ first acknowledged female Army veterans. Years of research have resulted in our exclusive reproduction uniform made from navy blue wool and reproduction brass buttons. Our exclusive WWI Era reproduction Hello Girl uniform includes a fully lined jacket and fully lined skirt. A white cotton blouse and wool Garrison or Overseas cap complete the uniform and are sold separately.
Thanks to a generous collector, I had the opportunity to view three original WWI Era women’s uniforms- one being a Hello Girl uniform.
I have written in the past about the continual effort to draft a suitable version of the stand and fall collar, but now after seeing an original, I think I have finally solved the puzzle!
Not only did I finally get the stand and fall collar right (hooray!) but I also tweaked my lastest jacket pattern and skirt construction to mimic the originals more closely. Here is how it looks now:
I used a very fine smooth weave wool for this uniform.
I also used original buttons
The silhouette is very 1918!
The clean and sleek lines of this jacket have just the right amount of fullness at the back.
I eliminated the center back seam and moved the gussets to the side back side seams similar to the cut of WWI era Army Nurse uniforms.
So nearly a YEAR after I first began making this particular uniform, I now have a FINAL DESIGN I am happy with! This is also now the foundation pattern for my WWI Army Nurse Uniform, WWI Era Red Cross Uniform, WWI YMCA uniform, and WWI Motor Corps Uniform.
For more information about our Hello Girl Uniform or any of our custom made historical fashions, please visit our website by clicking any of the links in the header bar!
This cotton sateen uniform is inspired by the summer uniforms worn by the Hello Girls during WWI.
(Ugh! Still working on that stand and fold collar! I am going to master it yet!)
For this uniform, I selected a cotton/poly blend (65/35) as 100% cotton sateen tends to lose its luster after a single washing. And because I wanted this uniform to retain as much luster as possible, I chose a blend over all natural. Sometimes you have to compromise!Plus, the weight of this cotton satin was absolutely ideal for this piece. (Modern all natural cotton sateen tends to be rather thin. Think sheets! Or lining in this case!) Amazingly this cotton satin has the feel of silk satin! It was really lovely to work with. (Note- cotton satin and cotton sateen are interchangeable terms).
The buttons are reproduction brass eagles and lack the years of bronzing their antique counterparts have. I like to leave the patina on antique brass so the brightness of these reproductions were the way to go on this uniform. The jacket is fully lined in a 100% cotton sateen.
Original WWI cotton sateen summer uniform (image courtesy Ebay)
The Hello Girl uniform was officially known as a US Signal Corp Uniform and was issued to women working overseas as bilingual translators on the European front. The Hello Girls were some of the first women to officially enter into military service and were issued 2 uniforms- 1 winter uniform of wool and 1 summer uniform of cotton sateen.
While issued uniforms by the US Army and commissioned to work on base, the Hello Girls were viewed as civilian contractors and were never offered a pension or any military benefits. It was not until the late 1970s that the US gov’t acknowledged these women’s service and contributions to our country during WWI.
Fore more information about our WWI era uniforms or any of our custom order garments, please visit our website at www.maggiemayfashions.com
We recently completed our second commission for a WWI Hello Girls Uniform. This uniform is made of navy blue twill wool* and a cotton sateen lining. The buttons are original.
For the second uniform, I tweaked a few things on my pattern- including a slightly more fitted jacket body and fuller jacket skirt at center back. I narrowed the skirt and added pockets.
I found the worsted wool lovely to work with. It held its body beautifully and created a gorgeous skirt. It felt very authentic in look and feel. The jacket was a dream as well and in the end, I really love the way this uniform turned out. It has that “original feel” to it and the color/ texture added a whole new dimension that melton wool cannot achieve. (Melton tends to look flat in my opinion.)
Now onto more WWI Hello Girls uniforms! We have commissions for 6 more of these already this year!
For more information about our WWI Hello Girl Uniform or any of our custom designed historical garments, please visit our website at www.maggiemayfashions.com
This WWI Era Hello Girl Uniform was meticulously researched for accuracy and authenticity as it was designed for exhibition at Alvin C. York State Park in Tennessee.
The Hello Girls, also known as theSignal Corps Female Telephone Operators Unit were an auxiliary unit of the US Army during WWI. Experienced, bilingual female telephone operators were recruited by the US Army and sent overseas to aid the failing communication lines of the Allies in wartime France. In 1917, over 7000 US women applied but only 450 were enlisted.This small group of skilled women paved the way for future generations and helped secure the role of women as vital assets in the US military.
Required to purchase their own uniforms, and being paid only $50 per month proved to be a barrier for many women. As they were required to wear their uniforms at all times (even on leave), two uniforms of the same style were devised. Winter uniforms were made of wool and summer uniforms of cotton sateen. However, purchasing two uniforms plus an overcoat, hat, and rank- designating insignias dwindled their measly earnings down to pennies. Therefore it can be surmised that most Hello Girls viewed their positions as patriotic rather than an income generating endeavor. While considered merely contract civilians by the US Army, the Hello Girls instead referred to themselves as the “first womens combatant unit in the U.S. Army.”
Our replica WWI Hello Girl uniform is made from wool and is cut in the style of the original. The buttons are original eagle buttons as were worn by all WWI era serviceman (and women!).
For more information about our WWI Era Hello Girl Uniform or any of our custom designed historical garments, please visit our website at www.maggiemayfashions.com
Women and WWI is a series based on historical accounts of women who fought for the Allied Cause during The First World War. Women’s war contributions have largely been dismissed and were not formerly acknowledged until the late 1970s when women of the US Army Signal Corps Telephone Operator’s Units demanded recognition from the US government and equal status as military veterans. This series is based on first hand accounts as well as research by other historians. Women and WWI hopes to spark continued curiosity about the roles women played during The Great War and further propel women’s history into mainstream consciousness.
Louise De Bettignies & The Alice Network
In the Spring of 1915, the British Intelligence Service enlisted a modern young French woman by the name of Louise De Bettignies to gather information about German movements in occupied Lille (just on the French border). Fluent in English, German, Italian and able to understand Russian, Czech and Spanish, Louise was trained in Britain by intelligence officers in codes, drawing up plans, gathering information, and sending messages. Upon being smuggled into Belgium, she adopted the name Alice Dubois.
Prior to becoming an official British agent of espionage, Louise and her sister worked underground smuggling supplies to the front. Upon entering Belgium, she began collaborations with Marie-Léonie Vanhoutte, (alias Charlotte Lameron) who was affiliated with the ambulance services throughout German occupied Belgium and the neutral Netherlands. Together, they expanded and centralized a secret organization of 80-100 nameless men and women, now known as “The Alice Network.” The Alice Network watched trains, identified positions of gun batteries, munitions depots, and identified the houses of officers throughout Belgium. Many involved in the secret network worked for the railways or the postal services.
Despite her meticulous training and prior experience, crossing the Belgian-Dutch border every week quickly brought Louise to the attention of the German counter-intelligence agency. She was captured in October 1915 and was found guilty of espionage. She was sentenced to death but after pressure from Belgium officials, was commuted to forced labour in Germany. After refusing to make German munitions, she was confined to a dungeon and fell ill. She died in 1918 from an infection resulting from a poor surgery and unsanitary conditions. In 1920, her body was returned to Lille and given a state funeral.
Louise De Bettignies was known as the “Joan of Arc of the North” by her comrades and “The Queen of Spies” by the British. The Alice Network was so effective, it is estimated over 1,000 British lives were saved during its short period of operation (“On this Day.”).
La Dame Blanche
The most successful espionage effort in occupied Europe was La Dame Blanche (or The White Lady) network. There are multiple legends surrounding the term “La Dame Blanche.” In 1870, Folklorist Thomas Keightley describes the “Dames Blanches” as a type of Fée known in Normandy “who are of a less benevolent character.” Additionally, famous Celtic scholar James MacCulloch believed Dames Blanches were a recharacterization of medieval female guardians who watched over the home. During WWI, La Dame Blanche was symbolic of the ancient German legend that tells the story of the appearance of a white lady (or spectre) just prior to the fall of the Prussian Empire.
Much of what we know about La Dame Blanche comes from author Tammy Proctor in her book, Female Intelligence: Women and Espionage in the First World War (published in 2003). La Dame Blanche was an extensive network throughout occupied Europe and was thought to have had at least 1,100 agents of which 300 were female. “Women provided an important component to intelligence and escape networks because their movements aroused fewer suspicions than the activities of men” (75). The network’s leaders devised a network that could be run entirely by women. A female executive committee was created which could perform leadership functions and take over the Network completely if necessary.
Proctor also writes about a La Dame Blanche battalion based in Brussels, headed up by two schoolmistresses sisters named Laure and Louise Tandel. The Tandels’ batallion employed 190 agents- of whom 59 were women. Of these 59 women, two-thirds were unmarried and in their thirties and forties. They were highly independent women from “respectable” backgrounds- ranging from the middle class to the aristocracy.
La Dame Blanche concentrated most of its espionage on railway observation. Reports were collected, verified, and then given to a “courier” service who then transmitted them to English agents in the Netherlands. It is known that La Dame Blanche collaborated with The Alice Network in Belgium.
Additionally, La Dame Blanche surveyed the countryside for any details that could be of military interest. La Dame Blanche was so efficient in their espionage that by 1918, the Allied Forces knew (with almost daily accuracy) the exact details of all German positions within Belgium, Northern France, and Luxembourg.
Unlike the Alice Network, few agents of La Dame Blanche were ever caught. Of the 1,100 active collaborators, only two were ever convicted and condemned for spying. La Dame Blanche was highly skilled at evading most all German counter intelligence efforts (Decock).
There is no doubt, ”The intelligence community rested on the backs of female laborers,” Proctor writes (55). The patriotism and motivation to protect the home front motivated these women to “do their bit.” As one unnamed La Dame Blanche reflected, “We were ‘soldiers without uniforms’ (75)”. Interestingly enough, Germany’s defeat in 1918 led to a German Revolution. The German monarchy was overthrown and the Weimar Republic was established, thus bringing an end to the Prussian Dynasty just as predicted. It seems the foretelling of the appearance of La Dame Blanche proved true.
Unlike the Alice Network, few agents of La Dame Blanche were ever caught. Of the 1,100 active collaborators, only two were ever convicted and condemned for spying. La Dame Blanche was highly skilled at evading most all German counter intelligence efforts (Decock).
Recommended Readings:
Antier, Chantal. “Bettignies, Louise Marie Jeanne Henriette de.” International Encyclopedia of the First World War. encyclopedia.1914-1918-online.net
Brittain, Vera. Testament of Youth. Victor Gollancz Ltd. London, 1933.
Brittain, Vera. Lady into Woman. Andrew Dakers Limited. London, 1953.
CalicoBall is a grassroots effort to document, preserve, and present rural America’s diverse historical traditions. CalicoBall is an educational extension of Maggie May Clothing. All rights reserved.
For this uniform, I selected a cotton/poly blend (65/35) as 100% cotton sateen tends to lose its luster after a single washing. And because I wanted this uniform to retain as much luster as possible, I chose a blend over all natural. Sometimes you have to compromise!Plus, the weight of this cotton satin was absolutely ideal for this piece. (Modern all natural cotton sateen tends to be rather thin. Think sheets! Or lining in this case!) Amazingly this cotton satin has the feel of silk satin! It was really lovely to work with. (Note- cotton satin and cotton sateen are interchangeable terms).
