A little housekeeping….

Photograph by Irving Penn
(The Getty Museum)

If you have visited any of my sites recently, you may have noticed things look a little different.

Over the summer, I completely revamped and updated my Costume History Pages. This is a free historical clothing reference site dedicated to women and children’s clothing from 1790-1910.

I also rearranged my blog a bit- deleting some old posts and moving business related stuff to my website. I have decided to keep all business related stuff “in house.”

But never fear! I am keeping some of the more popular posts here and offering links to my business blog where you can find old entries in their entirety. I will continue to keep this Blog active with other nonbusiness historical clothing related stuff!

On a final note, I have a story I would like to share.

Last week I was contacted via email by an individual we will call “John” wishing to purchase a few items. “John” owns a business in the EU and requested an invoice be sent to his email. No problem. I do this all the time.

“John” did not want to use my current online e-commerce payment processor and wished to give me his credit card number via email. Again- No problem. This is not something out of the ordinary. Even though I am more comfortable accepting credit card transactions over the phone (for security reasons), seeing how he was in the EU, I was willing to make an exception.

Then it gets strange. Instead of completing the transaction, “John” emails me requesting that I not ship the items to him in the EU but instead he will send a shipping agent to my location to pick the items up.  I responded that I do not offer private pick-ups but I would be happy to send the items to his shipping agent. “John” then requested that I charge his credit card double the amount of the merchandise and Western Union the difference to his shipping agent as compensation for his troubles.

????????????????

I responded I do not conduct transactions for third parties and I only process payments for actual merchandise sold including shipping. Therefore, if he was interested in completing the transaction, he needed to logon to my order form and use my current credit card processor to complete the transaction.

“John” sent me a few more desperate emails- which I did not respond to. He never provided a credit card number or completed the transaction- thank goodness because it was probably a stolen credit card number. Essentially, this was a revised version of the Nigerian Money Transfer Scam (also known as the 419 scam) and it is a multibillion dollar industry. (Contrary to the name, The NMTS does not always originate in Africa.)

Fortunately, I was smart enough to know something just wasn’t quite right early on and was on high alert. If I had indeed run “John’s” credit card number and Western Unioned the money to the so called “shipping agent,” once the credit card number came back stolen, I would have been liable for the entirety of the transaction. And what if I had indeed given “John” a pick up address? Even though no one would have ever shown up, it still frightens me to think those within this criminal network would have access to my location.

In short, please be careful what and how much you post about yourself online. Remember, this is the WORLD WIDE web and there are a lot of crazy and criminal- minded people out there. ”John” mentioned that he found my business through a Google image search. Even though you might not be running an e-business, please know that ANYONE and EVERYONE has access to what you post online. Sometimes your info may end up in places you do not want it to be.So, have fun but be safe. Before you hit “Publish Post,” ask yourself if this is something I am comfortable with ANYONE knowing?  It may be safe and cozy in your town (like mine), but the world at large is not so trustworthy.

Revisiting an old project

As we progress in our experience in the art of recreating historical fashions, it is never a bad idea to go back and revisit some of those “firsts”- first gowns, first corsets, first bonnets, etc.

It is amazing to see where it all began and how far we have come. Over the summer, I went back and revisited such a project- my Costume History Pages (www.maggiemayfashions.com/costumehistory.html).
About nine years ago, I developed The Costume History Pages in response to a need for reputable online information regarding the history of Western fashion. These pages were initially designed for educators and students as a place where each could come to gain broader insight into how fashion played a role in history. Over the years, The CHPages have reached a far more diverse audience than I ever could have imagined.

When I first designed this site, I did it in a very short period of time (I think over the course of a two week holiday) and I pulled my information from only 6 scholarly texts. Nine years later, I have gone back and reworked this site completely. I have expanded my bibliography to over 40 scholarly texts.

Within the Costume History Pages, each time period is divided by marked political, social, or economic changes. Each page focusses on a central theme rather a culmination of historical facts. A broad overview of women’s, girl’s and boy’s clothing is presented and supported by extant images from both public and private collections.

If you have not visited The Costume History Pages in a while, please stop by when you have time and see what’s new. Whether you are an educator, student, scholar, or historical clothing enthusiast- it is my sincerest hope you will find these pages of assistance in your quest toward gaining a broader understanding of the history of fashion!

Dressing Mary Todd Lincoln

I recently had the pleasure to creating a gown for “Mrs. Mary Todd Lincoln.”  “Mrs. Lincoln’s” husband portrays President Abraham Lincoln and together, the two have been bringing history to life across the nation for over 10 years now!

This gown was a joint effort between Mrs. Lincoln and myself. The gown is based upon my 1860s era day dress  and loosely inspired by this gown worn by Mrs. Lincoln in this 1860s.

Mary Todd Lincoln
Image courtesy NPS 

The fabric along with a variety of trims were selected by Mrs. Lincoln. I draped and constructed the gown.

The color palette for this gown was inspired by Mary Todd Lincoln’s velvet inauguration dress (as seen below). However, anyone who has ever participated in living history events knows that silk or velvet is not the most appropriate choice for a garment that is meant to be worn multiple times in a variety of (sometimes unpredictable) weather conditions. Thus, Mrs. Lincoln chose to use a high quality yarn dyed/roller print cotton instead.

Mary Todd Lincoln's velvet gown  Mary Todd Lincoln's gown
This gown was made by Elizabeth Keckley- an African American seamstress who used her sewing talents to buy her freedom (and her son’s) prior the American Civil War. Images courtesy The Smithsonian

Here are the results:

Civil War era day dress  Detail of pagoda sleeve
Civil War day dress with collar
The colors for this gown are indigo, violet, pale lavender, and white.
The sleeve trim is pale lavender and the sleeve lining is violet.

And no ensemble would be complete without a fashionable bonnet!

Civil War era straw bonnet  1860s era summer straw bonnet  1860s summer bonnet
Lightweight summer straw bonnet

While most women during this period had one “good” bonnet they wore regardless whether it matched their gown or not, Mary Todd Lincoln was definitely one who had a variety of millinery. It would not have been unusual for her to have had a different piece of millinery for each outfit!

For more information about “President and Mrs. Lincoln,” please be sure to visit their website!

marytoddlincoln

Image Courtesy Client.

 

Taking it to the streets

Wouldn’t it be great to see an 1860s fashion show? Want to try on the minimalistic undergarments of a Regency era lady? Or, find out what it is like to attend a one room school house in the turn of the century South! Well, now you can!

In an effort to bring awareness about the unique aspects of Historical Clothing and the role it plays in history, I am now offering Historical Costume demonstrations and discussions to interested groups. I have designed three programs to start with and hope to add more. Each presentation will last approximately one hour and can be adjusted to the needs of each group. Email me if you are interested in learning more about one of these programs!